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Virtual Driving Lesson 6 - Crossroads

Sun, 10 May 2020 11:14:40 GMT

Lesson Six - Crossroads

Crossroads

In this week’s lesson we are going to look at crossroads. We will use the same approach we learnt in the last two junction lessons, practising the MSPSL routine. We will adding on the extra observations needed at crossroads, the priorities that other vehicles have when turning and the different positions when turning right.

Observations

When turning either left or right we have to consider the direction of where we intend to turn but remember the added danger in the extra junction. So if we are turning left, check the junction to the right and if you are turning right, check the junction to the left. When emerging as well as checking right, left and right again remember the road opposite.

Priorities

As with the extra observations made, especially when emerging we have to think if there is a vehicle in the opposite junction, which way are we intending to go and the direction they will be going. As a general rule the person turning right has the least priority. If you are emerging left and the car opposite is turning right, he should give way to you. Remember, don’t trust signals and make sure it is safe to procced before emerging, not everyone knows the rules. If you are both emerging right, then neither car has priority, make sure it is safe before you emerge.

Position

When two or more wish to turn right usually from a major road into a minor road, there are two different options for positioning prior to the turn.

Nearside to nearside

Nearside refers to the side of the vehicle which is nearest to the kerb in normal driving. With the nearside to nearside method, you will turn to the right sooner. sometimes referred as around the front. This is the more common method. The main advantage to this method is it allows a number of vehicles to form a queue. The disadvantage to this method is your view is restricted by the oncoming vehicle which is turning right with you. This is especially true when faced with a large vehicle such as a bus or van. Be careful to ensure you are aware of any road users, including cyclists and motorcyclists, who may be approaching from beyond the vehicle in front.

Offside to offside

Offside refers to the side of the vehicle which is furthest from the kerb in normal driving. This is the less common method, sometimes referred to as around the back.You will stay straight for longer and then steer around the rear of the opposing vehicle. This has the advantage of giving you a lot better view of the junction. The disadvantage of this method is as roads have become busier; it gives less space for queuing traffic.

If you are not sure which method to take, move slowly forward if clear and let the oncoming vehicle take the lead.

Virtual driving lesson 5 - Emerging

Mon, 27 Apr 2020 11:13:45 GMT

Lesson Five - Emerging

Emerging

In this week’s lesson we are going to look at how to emerge from a minor road to a major road. We will carry on with last week’s lesson using the MSPSL routine and add on emerging with due regard for other road users and effective observations before emerging.

Emerging to the left or right – MSPSL routine

Mirrors: Start by checking your interior and left mirrors for turning left and interior and right mirrors for turning right. You need to check these early so you can act on what you see and access on how your actions will affect other road users.

Signal: Let other road users know your intentions by giving a signal in plenty of time. Look out for other side roads or any hazards and avoid giving a misleading signal. Remember. think how your signals will be interpreted by others.

Position: When turning left try and follow your driving line (1m from the kerb) In most cases it will not be necessary to change position on approach to a left turn as you will already be following your driving line (approx.1m from kerb). Look for the point at which the kerb bends away from you and start to steer left. Continue to follow the kerb, steering as much as is necessary to maintain your driving line. Try and keep a position of 1m around the corner. When turning right, position your car just left to centre line, if safe to do so. Time your steering so you turn onto the left side of the new road you are emerging into.

Speed: Reduce your speed smoothly and gradually and avoid harsh late braking. You will need to plan to stop at the give way line. This will then give you time to assess the junction on your approach and make your decision on if safe to go or not.

Look: What you see then depends on if you will go or stop. You will need to start looking early to assess the junction. Look right, left and right and keep checking in this order. Do not stare to the right or left for too long, you also need to be looking forward. This is why a steady speed is important to give you time. If it’s clear and as your view improves you will generally choose 1st or 2nd gear, depending on your speed. In an automatic car you just need to come off the brake and then move away safely and under control.

If it’s not clear or your view is restricted, reduce your speed so you can stop just before the give way line. It may become clear. so keep checking right, left and right again. You will now need 1st gear to match your speed and to move off under control when it’s safe to do so.

In an automatic car, again slow your car down with the foot brake so you can stop just before the give way line. It may become clear, so keeping checking right, left and right. If its clear, release the foot brake and move off under control.

If its not clear, wait for a safe gap before emerging. You must emerge with due regard for other road users. Which simply means you must not make traffic in the new road stop, slow down or change direction. Remember, you may be pulling off from a stationary, so you need to get your speed up to the speed limit if safe to do so before the oncoming traffic catches up with you. Watch for pedestrians crossing near to the junction and other road users who may appear suddenly from outside your zone of vision.

A few points to remember

Keep looking as your view improves.

Assess the movements of other road users. How far are they? Where are they going? What speed are they travelling at? Are they speeding up or slowing down?

While assessing the situation, you must decide if and when it is safe to proceed. Remember, you do not have priority at this junction so your actions should not cause another road user to have to change their speed or direction.

When it is safe to proceed, look in the direction you intend going and move off under control.

Virtual Driving Lesson 4 - Turning left and right

Mon, 20 Apr 2020 09:00:52 GMT

Lesson Four-Turning left and right

In this week’s lesson we are going to look at turning left and right from a major road into a minor road, or in everyday language, from a main road into a side road. We have come across MSM in our moving off lesson we are going break down the manoeuvre part t help to put it into smaller steps. So, this will become MSPSL, which will be explained below. The MSPSL routine or hazard drill will become an important part of your driving. Basically, every hazard you approach, be it any junctions, parked cars, pedestrian crossing, and any other hazards you approach. You will need to use the MSPSL routine.

If driving an Automatic car, you will approach using the same method, MSPSL. Follow the routine below and note the differences in the Look sections.

Turning Left-MSPSL Routine

Mirrors: Start by checking your interior and left mirrors. You need to check these early so you can act on what you see and assess on how your actions will affect other road users.

Signal: Let other road users know your intentions by giving a left signal in plenty of time. Look out for other side roads on the left or any hazards for example a parked car and avoid giving a misleading signal. Remember. think how your signals will be interpreted by others.

Position: In most cases it will not be necessary to change position on approach to a left turn as you will already following your driving line (approx. 1m from kerb). Try and keep a position of 1m around the corner.

Speed: Bring down your speed smoothly and gradually, avoid harsh late braking. You will try and get your speed down to about 10 to 15 mph at about 2 to 3 car lengths from the junction.

Look: What you see then depends on what you will do with your speed. If its clear you will generally choose 2nd gear. It is then important to bring your clutch up (this avoids coasting) and gives you full control of your car. Keep your foot off the gas, this is referred to as walking your car. Remember to check your left door mirror for cyclists before you turn.

If it’s not clear or it’s a tight narrow junction you can reduce your speed and choose 1st gear (5mph or lower). This will give you more time and control.

Be especially careful of pedestrians who may step out onto the road. Remember pedestrians already on the road have priority.

Once you have made the turn don’t accelerate until you have straightened up and check your mirrors before you accelerate.

In an automatic car the same speed will apply, 10-15 mph at about 2 to 3 car lengths. Keep your foot off the gas, this will give you the same effect as walking the car (known as creep). If it's not clear or a tight junction, slow your car down with the brake to 5mph or lower. This will give you more time and control.

Turning Right-MSPSL Routine

Mirrors: Start by checking your interior and right mirrors. You need to check these early so you can act on what you see and assess on how your actions will affect other road users.

Signal: Let other road users know your intentions by giving a right signal in plenty of time. Look out for other side roads on the right or any hazards for example a parked car (even on the right). This could affect your position with on coming traffic. and avoid giving a misleading signal. Remember. think how your signals will be interpreted by others.

Position: In most cases it necessary to change position on approach just to the left of the centre line (if safe to do so). If there is no centre line or the road is narrow, then keep your normal position. You will need to look for your point of turn to avoid cutting corners. To do this, line the front of your car with the centre line in the side road you are turning into to.

Speed: Bring down your speed smoothly and gradually, avoid harsh late braking. You will try and get your speed down to about 10 to 15 mph at about 2 to 3 car lengths from the junction.

Look: What you see then depends on what you will do with your speed. If it’s clear you will generally choose 2nd gear. It is then important to bring your clutch up (this avoids coasting) and gives you full control of your car. Keep your foot off the gas, this is referred to as walking your car. Remember to check your right door mirror just in case someone is overtaking. Also, with turning right you are crossing the path of other vehicles. So, look out for oncoming vehicles. You should not turn if this will cause oncoming vehicles to change speed or direction. Do not turn into the new road if the side road is clear, for example if their is queuing traffic, or pedestrians in the side road and this will cause you to stop and block oncoming traffic.

If it’s not clear or it’s a tight narrow junction you can reduce your speed and choose 1st gear (5mph or lower). This will give you more time and control. Be especially careful of pedestrians who may step out onto the road. Remember pedestrians already on the road have priority.

Once you have made the turn don’t accelerate until you have straightened up and check your mirrors before you accelerate.

In an automatic car the same speed will apply, 10-15 mph at about 2 to 3 car lengths. Keep your foot off the gas, this will give you the same effect as walking the car (known as creep).

If it's not clear or a tight junction, slow your car down with the brake to 5mph or lower. This will give you more time and control.

Virtual Driving Lesson 3 - Moving off and Stopping

Fri, 10 Apr 2020 11:31:31 GMT

Lesson Three - Moving off and stopping (manual & automatic)

MSM-Mirrors Signal Manoeuvre

You will need to check your mirrors before any manoeuvre. You also need to check your mirrors frequently. This enables you to build a picture of what is happening behind you. Thus enabling you to take appropriate action early and safely enough. You always start with the interior mirror and then check your door mirrors. Do these in pairs when out on the road, e.g. if turning/moving right, interior mirror, then right door mirror, if turning left, interior mirror, then left door mirror.

You can then plan when or indeed if you need to signal. Timing of the signal is important; you don’t want to signal too early or too late.

Then we can think about your manoeuvre. A manoeuvre is any change of speed or direction. So, if your feet or hands move you are manoeuvring your car.

Move off

Before you start the engine make sure you have done your safety checks (handbrake and neutral). Once this is done you will turn the key one turn/click, this sets the ignition to auxiliary position (radio only) the second turn/click is ignition on. You will see the warning lights come on in the instrument cluster. The car is going through its safety checks, most will go out apart from the handbrake on light. The third turn/click will start your engine. Your key will return to the ignition on position. (some manufacturers will only allow car to start with the clutch or brake pedal depressed.

Time now to set the car for your first move off.

We need to engage first gear. To do this fully depress the clutch and move the gearstick to the first gear position, try not to get into the habit of looking down at the gearstick. Its tricky at first but you will get used to the different gear positions. Next is setting the biting point. We need a gentle pressure to set the gas (a nice even hum) and the slowly lift the clutch to the biting point (you will hear the engine note change and the bonnet will lift a little),

That’s it, your car ready to move off.

You need to ensure it is safe before moving off. Take effective all-round observations. Starting from the left, check over your left shoulder (blind spot) then the left door mirror, move to the interior mirror, the right door mirror and finish with over your right shoulder (blind spot). These checks ensure it is safe to move off, and make sure you are aware of anyone and anything that could be affected by your actions. Look out for other road users who may benefit from you giving a signal. If it is clear, then you don’t need to signal.

When you are sure it is safe to move off, release the handbrake and begin to ease gently off the clutch. The more you release the clutch, the quicker the car will go. Maintain gentle pressure on the gas in order to prevent the engine from stalling.

Move off – Automatic

When you get into a car with an automatic gearbox, it should have been left in ‘park’ or ‘P’.

Put your right foot on the left-hand pedal (the brake) and push down, Once this is done you will turn the key one turn/click, this sets the ignition to auxiliary position (radio only) the second turn/click is ignition on. You will see the warning lights come on in the instrument cluster. The car is going through its safety checks, most will go out apart from the handbrake on light. The third turn/click will start your engine. Your key will return to the ignition on position. move the shifter to ‘D’ (if you want to drive forward) or ‘R’ (if you wish to reverse).

Lifting your foot off the brake will cause most automatic vehicles to ‘creep’ forwards - this helps with parking or in low-speed traffic.

It might need a bit more gas if you’re on a hill or want to move off quicker.

Once moving, the gearbox will select the correct gear for the situation and do all the hard work for you.

Road Position

Once you are on the move, steer a little to the right, away from the kerb. This will move you towards the driving line (approximately one metre from the kerb)

Pulling up – MSM

Before pulling up on the left you must find a safe, convenient and legal place to park. Don’t park to close to a junction (ten metres), on or near to a bend, blocking a driveway. These are just a few examples.

Mirrors: Before pulling up on the left, check your interior and left door mirrors. You’re going to be slowing down, so you need to consider the possibility of affecting someone behind you. As you are also going to be moving towards the left, it is important to know if there is any possibility that someone (such as a cyclist) may be about to creep up your left side.

Signal: If necessary, give a left signal in plenty of time. You should be aware of who you are communicating with and exactly what signals you are sending. A side road on the left could cause a left signal to be misleading. Braking is also a signal as your brake lights will come on as soon as the brake pedal is pressed.

Manoeuvre: Pulling up requires the car to be moved closer to the kerb. Your speed needs to be reduced and finally the car should come to a stop near to the kerb. It is important not to hit or scrape the kerb as this could damage your tyres or wheels. In order to prevent the engine from stalling, the clutch must be pressed to the floor and held there until neutral has been selected and the handbrake applied.

Steering

Steering when pulling up is similar to steering when moving off. Start by steering a little to the left, towards the kerb. As you get close, steer away from the kerb. This will cause the car to straighten up. Finally, as the car aligns with the kerb, straighten the wheel.

Slowing down and stopping

Whether or not you need to use the brake to slow down and stop depends on a variety of factors, including your speed, gear and whether you are on an incline. If you are moving slowly in first gear, simply releasing the gas will cause the car to slow down to a very slow speed. When you press the clutch down shortly before stopping, this may be sufficient to cause the car to roll to a stop without ever touching the brake pedal. Even so, once you have stopped you should press the brake regardless, just in case. If you are traveling downhill, pressing the clutch pedal may cause the car to pick up speed. Gentle pressure on the brake ensure sure you stay in control.

Once you have completely stopped, secure the car by applying the handbrake. Select neutral and cancel your left signal if necessary.

Slowing down and stopping - Auto

How much you need to use the brake to slow down and stop depends on a variety of factors, including your speed and whether you are on an incline. If you are moving slowly simply releasing the gas will cause the car to slow down to ‘creep’. Use gentle progressive pressure on the brake to bring your car to a smooth stop.

Once the car is stopped in a safe place, apply the hand brake, put the gear stick into or ‘P’ or park position and switch the signal off if needed. Keep your foot on your brake pedal until you have secured your car.

Remember, gentle pressure on the brake to ensure you stay in control.

Theory test -Answers

Fri, 03 Apr 2020 09:08:26 GMT

Hope you enjoyed - Theory test answers

ANSWERS

Private practice

1. Correct answer is D . Explanation: It’s a legal requirement and a licensing condition for a provisional licence holder to display at least one red L-plate to the front of the vehicle, and at least one L-plate to the rear. The plates must conform to British Standards (7” square) and must not cover any lights or indicators. They should be displayed on the outside of the vehicle (not in the windows on the inside).

2. Correct answers are A & B . Explanation: Generally, you can apply for a provisional licence at 16. If on the enhanced rate of Personal Independence Payment then this may be applied for at 15 years and 6 months.

3. Correct answer is D . Explanation: The accompanying driver is the responsible adult, responsible for your actions whilst driving. They must have held their UK licence for at least three years and be over 21.

4. Correct answer is A . Explanation: They must be seated in the vehicle in the front passenger seat.

5. Correct answer is D . Explanation: The accompanying driver has the responsibility for your actions. This is why you should ensure that you only drive on roads that you have already been trained to use.

Night driving

1. Correct answer is A . Explanation: Put on your headlights at night and when visibility is reduced such as when it is cloudy and in poor weather.

2. Correct answer is A . Explanation: Keep your foot on the footbrake until you know the following vehicle is slowing down or has stopped behind you. Apply your handbrake when a pause becomes a wait.

3. Correct answer is A . Explanation: Half an hour after sunset and half an hour before sunrise.

4. Correct answer is A . Explanation: Use dipped headlights during the daytime too when visibility is poor such as a cloudy day or when it is raining.

5. Correct answer is A . Explanation: This is usually a small blue dashboard light that comes on when your main or full beam lights are on so as not to dazzle oncoming vehicles.

Rural driving

1. Correct answers are A, B & C . Explanation: Rural roads can have an additional set of hazards so it is essential you have good training and enough of it to safely deal with these types of roads.

2. Correct answers are A, B & C . Explanation: Listening for traffic approaching is very useful, as is knowing where else you can look. Turn down the radio and open the window to help you to hear.

3. Correct answers are A, B & C . Explanation: Mud on the road by farm entrances can give you a clue that a farm vehicle is operating. Don’t forget the farmer and animals too.

4. Correct answers are A & B . Explanation: Road signs and what is on the road are excellent ways to know if a horse rider and horses are up ahead.

5. Correct answers are A & B . Explanation: Passing places help traffic pass more easily when the road is particularly narrow and it is otherwise not possible to get past each other.

Vulnerable road users

1. Correct answers are A, B & C . Explanation: All of these are vulnerable road users. Pedestrians are also considered to be road users too, so don’t forget them! There are many more such as the disabled, the elderly, people on mobility scooters and horse riders.

2. Correct answers are A, B & C . Explanation: Drivers can fall into the trap of not looking for cyclists properly so they are often missed, especially at junctions, in queues of traffic and before drivers pull away from the side of the road.

3. Correct answer is A . Explanation: A white stick with red bands indicates they are both visually and hearing impaired.

4. Correct answers are A, B & C . Explanation: Give horse riders plenty of space and keep your car as quiet as possible as this will spook the horse. Keep back and watch the horse rider who will communicate with you when it is safest to pass. However don’t take another person’s word that it is safe, ALWAYS check yourself.

5. Correct answers are A & B . Explanation: Give elderly pedestrians extra consideration if they are crossing the road. Their eyesight, hearing and ability to judge oncoming traffic may be affected, plus they may be moving more slowly.

General driving knowledge

1. Correct answer is C . Explanation: The red and white squares denote that when the red light shows, even emergency vehicles may not pass.

2. Correct answer is B . Explanation: Only 30mph roads do not have to have any repeater signs.

3. Correct answer is C . Explanation: A dual carriageway has to have a central reservation.

4. Correct answer is B . Explanation: 60, but only if it is safe to do so.

5. Correct answer is B . Explanation: 50

Theory test

Thu, 02 Apr 2020 13:15:46 GMT

Getting bored - Can't go out for a driving lesson - Have a go at a theory test to continue your learning from home.

As your practical driver training has had to stop temporarily due to Covid-19, to help you to continue your learning at home, have a go at our driving knowledge quiz either to work through on your own, or as a household, to see who has the best knowledge about driving!

Each question can have more than one correct answer and it is down to you to get all of the answers correct.

Have fun and check in tomorrow for the answers

Private Practice

Q1.You would like to go out training in your own car. What do you need on the vehicle to be legal as a learner?

A. P plates front and back

B. A roof box, displaying a green L plate to the front and back

C. A dent on the car

D. Red L-plates to the front and back

Q2. When can you apply for a provisional licence?

A. At 15 years and 6 months if you are on the enhanced rate of the Personal Independence Payment (PIP)

B. At 16 if you are not on the enhanced rate of the Personal Independence Payment (PIP)

C. 15

D. 17

Q3. What is meant by ‘accompanying driver’?

A. This is a back seat passenger aged 18 or over who can already drive

B. This is someone aged 21 who can follow in the car behind

C. This is someone aged 21 who, although banned, knows how to drive

D. This is someone aged 21 who has had a driving licence for three or more years

Q4. Where must the ‘accompanying driver be’?

A. In the front passenger seat

B. In the rear seat behind the driver

C. In a following car

D. None of these

Q5.Who is in charge of the vehicle?

A. The owner of the vehicle

B. The registered keeper

C. You

D. The accompanying driver

Night driving

Q1. When does the Highway Code say you need to put on your headlights?

A. Ensure all sidelights and rear registration plate lights are lit between sunset and sunrise

B. Ensure all sidelights and rear registration plate lights are lit between sunrise and sunset

C. Use fog lights at night

Q2. When stationary in a queue of traffic at night, you should:

A. Apply the handbrake and take your foot off the footbrake to reduce dazzle

B. Keep your foot on the footbrake at all times

C. Not apply the handbrake

Q3.What are defined as the hours of darkness in the Highway Code?

A. The period between half an hour after sunset and half an hour before sunrise

B. The period between half an hour before sunset and half an hour after sunrise

C. When it is cloudy

Q4. You must use headlights in the daytime when:

A. Visibility is seriously reduced (100m or less)

B. Visibility is less than 50m

C. All the time

Q5.The dashboard light to show your ‘main’ or ‘full’ beam headlights are on is usually:

A. Blue

B. Amber

C. Red

Rural driving

Q1.Some additional hazards you may encounter on a rural road could be:

A. Narrow and unlit roads

B. Hidden junctions

C. Farm animal and vehicle

Q2. What are some of the clues you could look for to see if there is any oncoming traffic as you approach a bend or junction?

A. Look across or through hedgerows

B. Listen for approaching vehicles and/or sound of a horn from an approaching vehicle

C. Look for headlights

Q3. You see mud on the road by the entrance to a field. What do you need to look for?

A. Tractor or farm vehicles

B. Animals

C. The farmer

Q4. How might you know that horse riders may be ahead?

A. Fresh horse manure on the road

B. Road signs to warn of horse riders ahead

C. A national speed limit applies

Q5. What are passing places?

A. Wider areas of the road to help vehicles pass each other

B. When the road is narrow they help traffic to pass each other more easily

C. A passing place is a rural version of a T-junction

Vulnerable road users

Q1. Who are considered vulnerable road users?

A. Pedestrians

B. Cyclists

C. Motorbikes

Q2. What makes cyclists vulnerable?

A. They are not seen as easily

B. They are small and can be hidden behind other vehicles and obstructions

C. Drivers tend to look for cars and larger vehicles first

Q3. You see a pedestrian with a white stick and red bands around the stick. What does this mean?

A. They are visually and hearing impaired

B. They are only visually impaired

C. They are only hearing impaired

Q4. You see horse riders ahead, what should you do?

A. Slow down and give them plenty of space

B. Don’t rev your engine or sound your horn

C. Watch the horse rider for any signals they may give to you

Q5. Why are the elderly considered to be vulnerable?

A. Their eyesight and/or hearing may not be as good as it was

B. Their ability to judge the speed and distance of oncoming traffic may be impaired

C. They are able to move very quickly

General knowledge

Q1. What is a ‘zig-zag’?

A. The white lines painted in the road preceding a pedestrian controlled crossing

B. The black and white posts with red or white reflectors found on the side of the road

C. The lights found at a level crossing, fire station and ambulance station, bordered by red and white squares

Q2. A road bordered with street lights with no speed limit signs tends to have what speed limit?

A. 20 mph

B. 30 mph

C. 40 mph

Q3. What is the definition of a dual carriageway?

A. A road with two lanes, one in each direction, separated by a solid white line

B. A road of any number of lanes, where oncoming traffic is separated by a solid white line

C. A road of any number of lanes, where oncoming traffic is separated by a central reservation

Q4. What is the national speed limit for a car and motorbike on a single carriageway road?

A. 50

B. 60

C. 70

Q5. What is the speed limit on a single carriageway road for a car towing a caravan?

A. 40

B. 50

C. 60

Virtual Driving lesson 2 - Controls

Mon, 30 Mar 2020 16:54:57 GMT

Lesson Two - Controls

Pedals

Manual

The easy way to remember which pedal is which, is to read ABC from right to left: Accelerator, Brake and Clutch.

Furthest to the right is the accelerator, also known as the gas pedal. You will use your right foot for this pedal. Applying gentle pressure to this pedal feeds more fuel to the engine, thus making the engine turn faster. This provides more power to your vehicle. Dependant on the road conditions, power will not always result in more speed.

The middle is the brake. Again, for this pedal you will use your right foot. You will need gentle progressive pressure. Applying pressure on the brake pedal will activate the rear brake lights. Increasing pressure on the brake pedal applies increased friction to the wheels, which causes the car to slow down.

The pedal furthest to the left is the clutch pedal. For this pedal you will use your left foot. By pushing the clutch pedal down to the floor this disconnects the engine from the wheels. This pedal is used when moving off (setting the bite), just before stopping (to stop the car from stalling) and changing gears. All of which will be explained in our moving off and stopping lesson.

Automatic

With automatic transmission you will only have two pedals as there is no need for a clutch. The accelerator is on the right and the brake is on the left. You will use only your right foot for either of the pedals. Press the accelerator to increase power to your engine and the brake to slow down or stop.

Steering

If we can think of the steering wheel as a clock face, we will hold the steering wheel at the ten to two position or the quarter to three position, so the left hand is at the ten or nine o’clock position and the right hand is at the two or three o’clock position. Your hands should be opposite each other, so you should be using either the ten to two position or the quarter to three position. You should hold the wheel with a firm but comfortable grip with your fingers wrapped around the outside of the wheel and your thumbs inside.

To steer your vehicle, the safest way is to use the push pull method. Using this method your hands will always remain opposite other. The left hand stays on the left side and the right on the right side, not passing the twelve o’clock position, thus not crossing your hands. So, as one hand pulls the wheel down or pushes the wheel up, the other hand slides to form a mirror image of it on the other side. As the left hand pulls down to steer left, the right hand slides down to meet it at the six o’clock position. As the left hand pushes up, steering right, the right hand continues to mirror the left by sliding upwards.

Control is switched between the hands at the twelve and six o’clock positions. This means the wheel can continue to be turned while the two hands stay opposite each other.

With the push-pull method, at least one hand has a firm but comfortable grip on the wheel at all times. The wheel can be turned easily and quickly in either direction at any time with no loss of control.

Handbrake

You will use your handbrake when your car is parked, when stopped on a hill to stop the car from rolling back and allow to time to set your for moving off and when waiting. Junction, traffic queues and pedestrian crossing are just a few examples where you may have to wait. The waiting period could be anything from a few seconds to a few minutes. If you are not expecting to move off imminently, the safest thing to do is secure the car by applying the handbrake. Applying the handbrake does not illuminate the brake lights.

To release the handbrake, you will need to lift the handbrake up slightly with your left hand and at the same time press the button in with your thumb. You must hold the button in to allow the handbrake travel to its lowest point and then release the button.

To apply the handbrake, only do this when the car is stationary. Press the button and pull the handbrake until you feel a resistance and then release the handbrake. Be careful not to use to much pressure when applying the handbrake as you may struggle to release it and it also creates unnecessary wear on it. When applying the handbrake and you hear a ratchet sound this means the button in correctly and again creates wear on the mechanism.

Gears

Manual

Most modern cars now have either five or six gears. Different manufacturers have different layouts, the forward gears are usually the same layout with reverse gears in different positions, we will discuss reverse gear when we come to our manoeuvre lessons.

When you get in your car, before starting your car you must always do the two safety checks, handbrake and neutral. Wiggle the gearstick from side to side to check neutral is selected. The gearstick will not wiggle if it is not in neutral. Checking the car is in neutral ensures no gear is selected.

The driver selects an appropriate gear for the current speed and conditions. Situations which require more power, such as moving off or climbing a hill, require lower gears. At higher speeds, with more momentum, higher gears are used as less power is needed to maintain forward motion.

To select first or second gear press the clutch fully down to the floor and with left hand, use your palm to push the gearstick to the left (against the spring) and then push up for first and down for second. To engage third and fourth gear the spring will centre the gearstick in the centre. So, let it do the work and push it up for third and down for fourth. Fifth and sixth is a mirror image of first and second, pulling the gearstick against the spring towards the right. Don’t fight the gear stick, gentle slow movements will result in smooth and easy gear changes.

Automatic

Modern cars can have many variations of automatic transmission control. This shows the standard layout that has been in use for many years. Most modern variations are adapted from this basic design.

P = Park

R = Reverse

N = Neutral

D = Drive

Park - is used when the vehicle is parked. You will still need to use the handbrake to secure your vehicle.

Reverse - is the same as selecting reverse gear in a manual car.

Neutral - is also the same as it is in a manual car: when neutral is selected, no gear is engaged, and the wheels can turn freely. You would use neutral when the handbrake is applied. in stationary traffic or at a red traffic light are just two examples

Drive – this engages the gears. The car will automatically select the appropriate gear for the situation.

The example shown above also has an ‘S’. This engages the gear box into sport mode.

If your car has 2 or a 1 or some manufacturers have a letter M for manual, these allow manual selection of these gears. This could be useful when descending a steep hill, for example, to help maintain control of the speed.

In most situations, the driver will only require the Park, Drive and Reverse settings. Park to park, Drive to drive (forward), and Reverse to reverse. It’s as simple as that.

Virtual Driving Lesson - Cockpit Drill

Wed, 25 Mar 2020 10:40:50 GMT

Lesson One - Controls

Cockpit Drill

The cockpit drill is usually the first thing a driver should do after getting into the vehicle. The basic cockpit drill involves the following items: Doors, Seat, Mirrors, Seatbelt, Handbrake and Neutral.

Doors

Check that all doors are fully closed. If you look in the side mirrors, you should be able to see if all the side doors are flush with the side of the car. On a lot of modern cars the interior light will also stay, there may a warning light will show on the dash board and sometimes a audible sound will be heard if one of doors are not closed properly The boot should also be fully closed before starting any journey.

Always be careful when opening your door and remember to keep a firm grip on the handle when opening a car door on a windy day.

You should always check it is safe before opening the door. Remember to check the mirrors and blind spot.

Seat

Most car seats can be adjusted in four ways. Forward and backward, up and down, the angle of the back (sometimes known as the rake) can be changed, and the head restraint can be adjusted up and down (sometimes forward and backward as well).

The first check to make when adjusting your seat is to press the clutch pedal fully to the floor with your left foot. Your left knee should be slightly bent, with no need to stretch.

Place both your hands at top of the steering wheel. Your elbows should be very slightly bent. If not continue to adjust the seat until this is so (this can be a good time to adjust the rake).

When your seat is correctly adjusted, you should be able to run your hands from the top to the bottom of the steering wheel with ease. You should also be able to push the clutch fully down with your leg slightly bent. Make sure you have clear view over the steering wheel and into the road ahead.

Some cars allow you to adjust the angle of the steering wheel. This can be helpful in getting a good driving position and maximising visibility.

The head restraint should be close behind your head (but not touching) and the centre should be roughly level with your ears.

Mirrors

Your interior mirror should be adjusted so you can see as much as possible through the back window of the car. Make sure you don’t get thumb/fingerprints on the glass when adjusting it.

Your side mirrors should be adjusted so you can see a little bit of the side of the car. You can sometimes use the horizon line to get the best possible view.

Notice how objects appear further away in the door mirror than they do in the interior mirror. This is because the door mirror has convex glass to give you a wider field of vision.

Seatbelt

The easiest way to grab your seatbelt is to use your left hand and reach over your right shoulder. Once clicked into its socket, the seatbelt should sit flat against you without any twists. Check it is properly engaged and will not pull free of the socket without pressing the release button. You should still be able to lean forward in your seat and the seatbelt should extend to allow this.

When you release your seatbelt, it may try to spring back to its starting position very quickly. Keep hold of it so it reels back in gently.

As a driver, you are responsible for any your passengers under the age of 14 to wear a seatbelt or appropriate seat restraint.

Handbrake

These last two checks are also known as the Safety Checks. You must always do these two checks before you start the engine.

To check the handbrake is on and holding your vehicle securely. Pull the handbrake up, until it is reasonably firm, but not excessive.

Neutral

You will then need to check that the gear lever is in neutral or park if you are driving an automatic car.

To check neutral, move the gear stick from left to right with your left hand. It should feel springy and will centre itself.

Coronavirus - Help and advice for learner drivers

Thu, 12 Mar 2020 14:59:33 GMT

Coronavirus and learning to drive

Coronavirus (COVID-19): guidance for learners

Coronavirus (COVID-19) is a new illness that can affect your lungs and airways. It’s caused by a virus called coronavirus.

You may be asked to use hand sanitizer gel before starting your lesson. This is purely a precautionary measure

If you feel unwell, with any of the symptoms listed below, please do not attend your driving lesson.

If you have any of the symptoms you will not be charged for your lesson if you cancel with less than 24 hours notice.

If you have your Driving Test booked

Please do not attend your test if you feel unwell.

Follow the latest NHS advice if you think you might have coronavirus. The symptoms of coronavirus are:

a cough
a high temperature
shortness of breath
NHS 111 has an online coronavirus service that can tell you if you need NHS medical help and advises you what to do.

If there's a chance you could have coronavirus, you might be asked to stay away from other people (self-isolate).

If you need to cancel or rearrange a test

The DVSA will rebook your test free of charge if it has to be cancelled or changed because of coronavirus. This includes if it’s done at short notice (within 3 clear working days of the test).

Your will need call us to cancel or change on 0300 200 1122 (Monday to Friday, 8am to 4pm).

You cannot cancel or change your test online, if it's because of coronavirus.

Winter driving

Thu, 27 Feb 2020 15:49:23 GMT

Top tips for winter driving

Carry an emergency kit

Gather together the following items and pack in your vehicle at the start of the winter season. You never know when you might need them!

Ice scraper and de-icer
Torch and spare batteries - or a wind-up torch
Warm clothes and blankets - for you and all passengers
Boots
First aid kit
Jump leads
A shovel
Road atlas
Sunglasses (the low winter sun and glare off snow can be dazzling)

Before you set off – check the latest traffic and weather

Have you planned your journey?

In severe and wintry weather it's even more important to plan your journey. Highways England provides up to the minute traffic reports for its network of 4,300 miles of motorways and major A roads across England.

Just a few minutes checking information services before you set off can make all the difference to your journey.

Before you set off

The Highways England website includes the latest traffic reports, maps showing how the traffic is flowing on England's motorways and major A roads, a motorway flow diagram, views from CCTV cameras, average speeds and the displays on motorway message signs.

Road and weather conditions may change, drive with care

When you're on the road, pay attention to the changing road, traffic and weather conditions. Be ready to slow down and take more care if you need to, particularly on bends and exposed roads. Don't be lulled into a false sense of security - even if you drive every day on the same stretch of road.

Additional information and advice on driving in adverse weather conditions is available in the Highway Code or by visiting the Met Office advice pages.

Updates on the move

If you are away from your computer or have already set out on your journey, there are still lots of ways to get Highways England live traffic information.

On overhead message signs – motorway control centres will flash up important travel messages, including warning you of delays and advising of alternative routes. There are also automatic signs telling you how long it will take traffic to reach certain destinations at that time.

When you take a break

On long journeys, consider taking a break at regular intervals - and that's an ideal time to check the traffic conditions on the road ahead.

While you are safely parked, check the latest information via your mobile phone, iPhone or laptop. Never stop on the hard shoulder to do this and never use your mobile phone while driving.

Driving through snow and ice

Highways England looks after motorways and major A roads, and local authorities look after all the other roads. Both work as hard as they can to keep their networks clear during severe weather.

Stick to the main roads where you can and avoid exposed routes.

You should drive with care and respect the road conditions wherever you drive, but not every road can be treated. You need to take even more care driving on minor roads.

Even if the time and location of snowfall is perfectly forecast, it will still take time to clear the snow after it has fallen. Remember though, snow ploughs can't get through if the road or motorway is full of stationary traffic. Give Highways England and local authority teams the space they need to do their job and help you on your journey!

Steep hills and exposed roads are also likely to present more challenging driving conditions in snow and ice, so if you could avoid these it might make your journey easier.

Make sure you can see and be seen. Clear snow and ice off all windows, lights and number plates.

Leave extra space between you and other vehicles. Take even more care looking out for others that may not be able to stop and be extra cautious at road junctions where road markings may not be visible

If you use a higher gear than normal it will help to avoid wheel spin on a slippery surface. Accelerate and brake gently to avoid skidding.

Driving in rain and floods

When the road is wet it can take twice as long to stop. Slow down and maintain a safe distance from the vehicle in front.

If your vehicle loses grip, or “aquaplanes”, on surface water take your foot off the accelerator to slow down. Do not brake or steer suddenly because you have less control of the steering and brakes.

When faced with a flooded road, be very careful as you can’t always tell how deep the water is. Just 30cm of flowing water can wash a car away.

If you have no alternative but to drive through floods, drive slowly, use a low gear and try to keep the engine revving at a high rate. Move forward continuously to avoid stalling the engine. When driving an automatic vehicle, engage and hold in a low gear. And remember to test your brakes after driving through water; they may be ineffective.

Driving in fog

In reduced visibility, where you cannot see as much of the road ahead, you will need to slow down and drive more carefully. Use dipped headlights so that other drivers can see you.

Fog lights and full beam can dazzle other drivers. Use fog lights when it’s really thick (less than 100m visibility) and then don’t forget to turn them off when conditions improve.

Fog is often patchy so try not to speed up as soon as visibility improves. You could suddenly find yourself back in thick fog further up the road.

Driving in windy weather

Take extra care on the roads and plan your journey by checking the latest weather conditions. The traffic news, overhead motorway signs and Highways England digital information services will say if any roads or bridges are closed because of high winds.

Though high-sided vehicles are particularly affected by windy weather, strong winds can also blow other vehicles off course. This can happen on open stretches of road exposed to strong crosswinds, or when passing bridges, high-sided vehicles or gaps in trees.

Whatever the severe weather always adjust your driving according to the conditions.

Make sure you can see clearly and that you can be seen. Use at least dipped headlights in poor visibility – and don’t just rely on daytime running lights if you have them.

For more information check the Met Office advice pages.

Check weather updates

Take weather conditions into account when planning your route by visiting The Met Office website or listening to local radio broadcasts.

Timing

Always allow extra time in severe weather. Listen to warnings or advice and consider whether or not your journey is essential.

If severe weather is forecast, can you plan your journey to travel before the worst of the weather? Or wait until it has passed? Or at least allow time after the snowfall for crews to do their work clearing the roads? It all helps.

Remember, in severe weather you will need to allow more time for your journey. If severe weather is forecast are you able to change your travel plans? Can you work at home, for example?

There can be lots of different pressures to make a journey – whether it’s the pressure to get to work, the pressure to make a delivery on time or the desire to see friends and family at Christmas. Remember none of these pressures are more important than your safety.

When a prolonged period of severe weather is on the cards, we can all help to ease the pressures by allowing extra time for that delivery, being prepared to take a little longer for our journey and being flexible in our planning.

Pre-journey checks: Are you safe to drive?

Use this following handy reminder for pre-journey safety checks. It’s called the POWDERY checklist:

P ETROL (or diesel). Have you got enough? Do you know where to fill up?

O IL - check levels once a month

W ATER - check radiator and screenwash once a month

D AMAGE - check wipers, lights etc for signs of wear and tear or damage

E LECTRICS - check lights, indicators and controls are working properly

R UBBER - are your tyres well inflated, legal, with good tread and free from damage?

Y OURSELF - are you fit to drive? Have you slept well? Are you taking any medication(s) that could make it unsafe for you to drive?

If you are planning to travel with pets, ensure that animals are safe and secure, and will not be a distraction to people travelling in your vehicle - seek appropriate advice before you travel.

Welcome to our new blog!

Tue, 25 Feb 2020 16:42:31 GMT

Welcome to the new and exciting blog page from Intuition Driver Training.

Alongside the design of our new webpage, we have decided to run a blog, sharing information, tips and skills on driving. First of all, I'd like to take this opportunity to introduce our instructors.

We currently have 7 enthusiastic, highly qualified instructors, and over the following few weeks we will be doing a feature to allow you to get to know our instructors.

We would also like to welcome our newest member of the team, our social media manager, Emily, who will be writing all of our blogs and all social media posts.

We welcome any questions, comments or ideas for future blogs.

Dave